Follow along with TJ’s Great Big 652 Adventure!
FLORENCE – On Saturday, April 30, Muscle Shoals National Heritage Area programs coordinator Terrence Johnson will begin a kayaker’s dream trip: paddling the length of the Tennessee River & completing a 652-mile journey. Little did Johnson know when he paddled the river’s first four miles last May during the Tennessee RiverLine’s launch celebration that he’d paddle the remaining 648 miles this year.
Johnson will leave from Suttree Landing Park Pavilion and Kayak Launch in Knoxville at 6:30 a.m.
“As an outdoor and kayaking enthusiast, I’ll consider this the trip of a lifetime or perhaps the start of many more adventures!” Johnson said. “I hope my trip can help highlight some of what the river has to offer as a recreational and environmental resource for all. I also want to focus on the work people are doing along the river to make that happen.”
Johnson and the MSNHA are working with the Tennessee RiverLine, an initiative led by the University of Tennessee, Knoxville, and Tennessee Valley Authority, as well as community partners across the region to develop a continuous system of paddling, hiking, and biking experiences along the Tennessee River from its origin in Knoxville, Tennessee, to its confluence with the Ohio River in Paducah, Kentucky. The initiative seeks to catalyze economic development, promote public health, improve equitable access to river spaces and experiences, and inspire resource stewardship.
The Shoals was one of the Tennessee RiverLine’s 2019 pilot communities, and a member of the Tennessee RiverTowns Program’s inaugural cohort in 2021.
“As a proponent of the Tennessee RiverLine, I’m excited to start this 37-day journey, during which I will be privileged to experience the riverscape’s natural beauty. And, perhaps even more importantly, I’m excited to meet people of Tennessee River communities who share the same passion for the river as me and interact with other Tennessee RiverTowns and paddlers along the way.”
Part of Johnson’s agenda includes highlighting the importance of river access to a diverse community of paddlers, including those traditionally underrepresented on the water. For the first 10 days of the paddle, Johnson will be joined by Fred Vail, an adventure paddler and supporter of organizations promoting adaptive paddling and recreational opportunities in the region, such as Team River Runner and SPARC Chattanooga.
Johnson will post regular updates during his trip on MSNHA’s Facebook page, @muscleshoalsnha, and other social media using the hashtag #TJ652. The Tennessee RiverLine will also be sharing Johnson’s progress on its social media accounts, @tnriverline.
Friday, April 29 — minus one day to launch!
TJ is loading up and heading to Knoxville – his great, big Tennessee RiverLine adventure begins tomorrow!
Saturday, April 30 -- Launch Day!
And they’re off!
TJ has some Tennessee RiverLine partners for the first few miles of his trip.
Paddler Fred Vail is going to stick with him all the way to Chattanooga.
The weather was perfect this morning for their send-off!
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 1
Starting mile - 648 Ending mile - 620 Launch time- 7:30 a.m. Takeout time - 5:30 a.m. After a late night with little sleep, I started my river adventure today fueled by excitement and apprehension. Sheryl Ely of Knoxville's Parks and Recreation Department, Ed (?) of ? and Brad Collett of the Tennessee RiverLine joined me for the first 4.5 miles. It was the perfect morning to marvel at the views of Knoxville & their reflections in the river's glass-like water. Thunder rumbled in the background most of the day. We faced the occasional headwind for a mile stretch here and there, but overall our paddling conditions were favorable and we maintained a consistent 4 MPH until we stopped for lunch at Louisville Point Park around 2:30 p.m. Though I'll be eating dehydrated food and protein bars for most of this journey, it was hotel breakfast for lunch -- eggs, cheese, sausage & a cinnamon raisin bagel -- that fueled me for our last few hours of paddling. The day was hard on my body, paddling for about 9.5 hours with one half hour break for food, but I was all smiles. Things I am thankful for: * A good pair of paddling gloves and an amazingly light paddle (thanks again, @aquabound!) *Continental breakfasts with peanut butter and Nutella * Good friends and mentors
TJ’s plan was to send video & photos & stories often during his trip, but, of course, then there’s weather — a significant element when you’re out in it all day. Today he encountered storms that disrupted both his navigation & his connectivity. He captured this moment before lightening shut him down this morning & will check in as soon as he can.
End of the first day! Twenty-eight river miles down, 620 to go. Day No. 1 camp was at Poland Creek Campground, in Louisville, Tennessee. A few months ago when I was planning this trip, the campground manager had promised that even if he didn’t have a spot open when I got there, he’d find one for me. He kept his word & I couldn’t have asked for friendlier hosts or a better place to stay on my first night!
Sunday, May 1
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 2
Starting mile - 620 Ending mile - 601 Launch time - 9:30 a.m. End time - 4:30 p.m. After a late night (10 p.m.) of getting camp squared away & working through footage, I woke up at 6:15 a.m. to start the day. Thunder rumbled again and foreshadowed the 15 mph winds with 25 mph gusts that were forecasted. As we packed, lightning cracked & heavy rain soon followed. As smooth & calm as our first day started, the start to Day 2 was the polar opposite. But it was a moment to treasure in its own way & made me feel at ease for future stormy days, knowing I had already been through it. Hunkering down under some shelter until the lightning passed, we finally headed out on the water at 9:30 a.m. Despite the morning's initial intensity, the weather cleared up within the first half hour of paddling and we saw calm waters for most of the day, sans an occasional mile with wind. Soreness lingered for the first few miles, but my body warmed up quickly. We made great time, averaging 4 mph again for the day. Wanting to get a couple more miles than scheduled in to take advantage of clear skies & our speed and to buffer us from lost progress we'd surely suffer during impending bad weather later in the week, I reached out to our first river angel, Dee Prickett. She clued us in on a local spot to camp that was a bit further downriver, just off the Little Tennessee, Tellico Day Use Area, which we were given permission to use for our trip. She even met us at the site! Though we spent less time on the water today than yesterday, a good chunk of my extra time was spent cleaning out my boat & drying out my gear. While I worked, local of Lenoir City, Brian Martin, approached me and we shared a delightful conversation about the RiverLine, my trip, and his recreational experiences on the river. He asked for the chance to help in any way he could, offering to run to the store for supplies and even offering one of the fishing rigs he had with him that day for me to take along the journey. Dee's local knowledge and warmth was a huge boon to my day, as was Brian's friendliness, enthusiasm, and willingness to help. Both were prime examples to me of the RiverLine's potential to connect. If I get to stop somewhere like this each night, maybe I'll just keep paddling after Paducah.
Monday, May 2
Headed into the town of Loudon, Tennessee.
Click image for video --
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 3
Starting mile - 601 Ending mile - 579.5 Start time - 9:15 a.m. End time - 6 p.m. The first 50 miles of Tennessee River bank was almost all private land with beautiful homes. I wondered how the RiverLine can solve this puzzle to create an opportunity for fully realizing the waterway's recreational value & performance. That will be a question I ponder for awhile, but in the meantime, today's stretch through Loudon County was a welcome change. My morning started at 5:30 a.m. as I walked back from admiring the world coming to life at Tellico Day Use Area's scenic peninsula, I saw someone shining a flashlight on my tent & approaching my gear. To my pleasant surprise, it was Brian from the day before, bringing me a few sausage biscuits to start my day! After chatting for awhile, Brian left me well fed & with a promise of his continued support, should I need anything. Around 8 a.m., Dee arrived with paddlers & river supporters from the area, Jon & Tom. They helped me portage to the Tellico Dam Boat Ramp, connecting just below Loudon Dam. Simon, of Tellico Village Parks and Recreation, also joined in at the launch to see me off, but not before I learned a little about their new kayak launch. Loudon County's enthusiasm for the river was palpable. I was so encouraged by their passion and generosity as I took off. The river through Loudon was overall less developed than in Knox County. With that came great opportunities for wildlife viewing. A river friend I met while paddling, Kevin, offered me a drink & told me about a bald eagle's nest just downriver left. While I was looking for it, a spider dispersed onto my camera. I watched it build a web then was startled by a deer splashing through the shoreline to my left immediately followed by a fish jumping in front of my GoPro just ahead of my boat. I then caught a glimpse of the smallest shorebird I've ever seen, eating insects out of the sand on the beach. I was hoping my spider friend would tag along for the rest of my day. I could see the web's progress but the spider quickly fell overboard. It still was a great 30 seconds of wildlife viewing. The rest of the day was equally diverse, highlighted by osprey, a beaver, & a bald eagle. As I came around the last bend before Loudon, I admired the beauty of the city on the bluffs. Its small-town charm reminded me of my hometown -- Winters, California. Mandi Wolfe & Rodney Grugin, with the Loudon County Chamber of Commerce, welcomed me with a Southern lunch. We shared a great discussion about trail development they've done in the county, infrastructure & accessibility improvements in the works and the potential for partnership with private entities they're exploring through the RiverLine to promote river use. After we said our farewells, I headed down the river to Sweetwater Island, where I originally intended to camp that night. Since I was making such good time I had already decided to keep going, which was a good thing. It didn't look quite like I thought it might from Google, with just a few feet of shore, but the cormorants inhabiting it provided great entertainment during a small break. I arrived at my campsite for the night, Polecat boat ramp, ready for day no. 4. Things I'm thankful for: * My time in Loudon County -- Dee, VJ, Brian, Tom, Jon, Kevin, Simon, Gary, Rodney & Mandi all made it a home away from home with their support. * The power & potential the future of the RiverLine has to be leveraged as a partnership that can help communities such as Loudon & the Shoals overcome challenges to develop their recreational opportunities.
Sweetwater Island — It’s a good thing I was ahead of schedule & already headed farther down the river because my initial camping location turned out to be less than planned, with just a few feet of shoreline. I called it ‘Cormorant Island’ because there were so many nesting cormorants. Dropped a GoPro battery while there. After scouring the island, I ended up finding it in the water along with the lip balm I thought I’d lost before starting day no. 1. I’ve never been so happy to find a dollar tube of gas-station lip balm in my life! It’s little victories like this that keep your spirits high on long days of paddling. And the battery worked!
Took off this morning from Tellico Dam Boat Launch with help from Tom & Jon & Dee, of Tellico Village (above, left). Dodged this barge coming through with the portage. Saved a good amount of time (center). And while I was on the river, this stowaway stayed with me for a few minutes! Can you spot it (right)?
Campsite day no. 3, at Polecat Boat Ramp, in Loudon County, Tennessee.
Flora & Fauna
Tuesday, May 3
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 4
Starting mile - 579.5 Ending mile - 562.5 Launch time - 8:15 a.m. Takeout time - 2:30 a.m. Dee stopped by this morning to make sure I was aa prepared as could be - with water, an apple & a mini blow horn. I will miss Loudon County & the people here! Getting ready is becoming more efficient. I had slept until 6:15 a.m. to catch up on much-needed rest & was on the water at 8:15 a.m. I needed an early start to get off the water as soon as possible today since strong winds were heading into the area around noon. I didn't finish fast enough. A stop at Paint Rock Wildlife Management Area, which was the "big city" version of Sweetwater Island, may have been ill-advised -- for the last few hours, I faced a consistent headwind, peaking at 20 mph with stronger gusts. My bilge pump saw some good action a few times, but I made it to the campsite Roane County's RiverLine leadership team had set aside for me. They even left a 5-gallon jug of water for me, which was much needed and appreciated. Thank you so much, Bonnie & Mike! Though the campsite was fantastic, the hill to get up from the water to it was steep & unsteady. I lost my rudder pin in the process of hauling my boat up. Once I got there, it was time to get to work to set up camp, and most importantly, put my solar panel to work. "Dr. Prepare" (my big battery station) was out of juice. He carried me through the first few days of recharging when I didn't have the sun & time to effectively utilize my solar panel. But my solar panel was the real MVP today, fulling recharging my phone once & a couple of my GoPro batteries. With my earlier-than-usual arrival time, it was the first day I've been able to take some time to stop & smell the wildflowers. The view of Caney Creek as the sun set and after, softly lit by the next-door campgrounds' lights, was worth the trouble.
On the river in Roane County, Tennessee
Video
Click image to play --
Wednesday, May 4
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 5
Starting mile - 562.5 Ending mile - 540.5 Launch time - 8:15 a.m. Takeout time - 1:45 p.m. I wanted to get an earlier start today, but some unexpected & needed maintenance to my foot pegs set me back little. Even so, I was on the water by 8:15 a.m. Those first few hours on the water are still, serene & almost exclusively mine. They are quickly becoming the hours in the day to which I most look forward. Activity consistently starts to liven just before noon, which makes the river a little more challenging to navigate. Even with decent paddling conditions, crossing Watts Bar Lake was a challenge. Its size made my progress feel slower than usual. I felt the need to check my map regularly to make sure my bearing wouldn't take me down an inlet. That added extra miles & time to my day's journey. Despite that, the miles went fast. I've been so blessed with great paddling conditions every day so far! I decided to take a shorter day than originally planned, so I could recharge my electrical batteries at a campground with outlets. Hornsby Hollow was the perfect campground for a night of R&R. When I called to check on site availability, the camp manager, Kim, was happy to direct me to a camp spot on the beach so I could paddle right up. The campground was clean, well maintained & stocked with amenities. Speaking of clean, the chance to shower & wash my clothes was the biggest pick-me-up of the night! Though I needed the extra rest, my body has mostly adapted to paddling for hours each day. But because the perceived stress on my body is less, I'm now getting hungrier than I was in the first few days! An unusual post-dinner snack meant the end of my beef jerky. Beef jerky, -- you were nice while you lasted. Looking forward to chai rice at breakfast in the morning!
What does TJ eat?
I’ve learned that unpeeled bananas are waterproof. This didn’t taste anything like the river after getting soaked for a few days (far left). Other staples are chai rice (left center) and rehydrated curried lentil bisque (right center) — which I would eat every day, even when I’m not on the river. Some days I had a special treat such as dessert (right) courtesy of Terry Winland & the Huntsville RiverLine team!
Thursday May 5
Getting ready to lock through Watts Bar Dam, in Meigs County, Tennessee. The book, produced by TVA, explains the process to kids (and people like me)!
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 6
Starting mile - 540.5 Ending mile - 523 Launch time - 7:45 a.m. Takeout time - 2:30 p.m. I had my earliest launch of the trip so far today. The start of my day was full of anticipation & a little nervousness for my first locking experience: through Watts Bar Dam. A Youtube video of Jeff Wunrow, who completed the 652 last year, helped me prepare last night, but I was still unsure about the approach. I life-lined Jeff & he walked me through the process one more time. After checking in with the lockmaster, I paddled toward the lock's doors as he prepped the chamber. Lockmaster Scott then let me in & was extremely friendly, pointing me toward where I needed to tie in. Once I was set, he lowered the water -- a gentle 10-minute process. Fifty-nine feet later, the grandiose farewell of the doors swinging open was such a rush! If anybody's curious about locking through in a kayak but unsure of the process or are intimidated by it, I promise that it's really as simple & easy & safe as in any other vessel. Just follow the instructions provided by TVA online. As soon as I exited Watts Bar Lock, a pair of bald eagles - - one adult & one juvenile - - flew over my head. I saw another pair just downriver & a fifth when I was setting up camp. I can see why so many would pick this area to nest. This short stretch below Watts Bar Dam is the most beautiful section of the Tennessee River I've seen yet, with limestone formations peeking through lush green mixed hardwoods. Camp was a short jaunt from the lock, located at Eaves Ferry Boat Ramp, just upriver from the ramp itself. Camping may or may not be permitted here -- it's hard to say. Looking at OnX (a hunting map app someone may use to see property ownership lines) would make me think. But what I believe was once a "no-camping" sign (now riddled with bullet holes where the "no" may have been) might suggest otherwise. Since it's hanging up across the parking area attached to a gate blocking a trail, I assumed it was for access beyond that point, and I unloaded. Understanding where access is & isn't permissible can be a major challenge to any river user looking to make an overnight trip and especially those seeking to explore the whole river. Making my float plan took quite some time for that reason, yet here I am!
Got caught in a storm later that day & had to pull over because of the lightning. The GoPro footage will probably be intense! Then enjoyed a few rays of sunshine & on to the campsite at Blythe Ferry. It’s along the Trail of Tears but, unfortunately, I didn’t get there in time to visit the nearby Cherokee Removal Memorial Park.
Limestone formations were plentiful in today’s stretch of Meigs County.
Friday, May 6
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 7
Starting mile - 523 Ending mile - 500 Launch time - 7:40 AM Takeout time - 5:00 PM Today was one of those days you just don't want to get out of your tent. Every day so far has been warm enough, but today was chilly & pouring. I started moving right after my alarm went off because I know those extra minutes at the start of my day will save me from or keep me on the water longer in the afternoon when conditions are tougher. I headed out, following a barge for the first several miles that had come in late last night. For the first couple miles, a bald eagle & I took turns leading each other down the river. The landscape was different today from yesterday - - I missed the limestone but enjoyed the riparian woodland habitat. I pit-stopped at Cottonport Marina at 10 a.m. to refill my water jugs then quickly was back on the water, knowing a thunderstorm was possible around 11 a.m. Thunder didn't come, but a stiff headwind did. For the remaining 11 miles of the day, I battled it as it steadily grew more intense, peaking around a consistent 20 mph. I challenged the gusts paddling as powerfully as I could just so I wouldn't be pushed backwards. The sunshine was prominent from noon until my break about 2 p.m., when I stopped for lunch & to change my GoPro battery. As boats raced past, I heard their rumbles & the rumbles of the storm I had missed earlier closing into the area. I was a couple hours from camp & knew I should hurry. The storm rolled in fast when I was about 45 minutes from camp. As the lightning strikes & downpour started, my core was already cramping from battling the wind for most of the day & racing to my destination. But I sprinted for shore & waited out the storm. I arrived at my campsite for the night, Blythe Ferry Boat Ramp (a historic Trail of Tears site), exhausted but satisfied with the day & the river miles. While prepping dinner, a man from the area named David came out to test his new touring kayak. We had a friendly conversation about each others' travels, the RiverLine and the history & revival of Chattanooga focused on recreation & the river. The connection was revitalizing & the best part of my evening! Despite its aesthetic & historical charm, I can't recommend Blythe Ferry to future paddlers looking to make a stop for the night. Swastikas & other inappropriate graffiti marked the shoreline's riprap, and twice during the night, cars have driven up past the boulders marking the pedestrian area off limits to traffic to within 10 feet of my tent. Yikes! I'll sleep well tomorrow.
Sequoyah Nuclear Plant, Soddy-Daisy, Tennessee
Video -- click to play
Saturday, May 7
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 8
Launch time - 8 a.m. Takeout time - 2:30 p.m. This morning started like yesterday's - - cold & wet. No rain today, but my clothes & gear never had the chance to dry. I felt under the weather after being mindful of Friday night partiers at Blythe Ferry but managed to get on the water on time. As I climbed into my cockpit, the sun peeked out from behind the clouds & gave my body some much needed warmth for about 10 minutes. That was enough. The movement would keep me warm from there. Limestone formations & mixed hardwood forests were back along this final stretch of Meigs County, but this time waterfront homes were sprinkled along the riverbank. The day consisted of three important firsts for the trip. Around 12 miles in, I wondered why my paddle was slicing & slapping the water differently, only to realize it was my first tailwind! It pushed me for a couple miles, and the momentum carried me through the next two with a moderate headwind. I made good time & was thankful for that. My camp location was Pinky's Point in Hixson, Tennessee - - an undeveloped TVA site & my first wilderness one of the trjp. With that, came my first campfire! There's nothing like a campfire to warm the body & soul, and plenty of fuel to burn littered the pine forest floor here. I may have had a Tom Hanks moment when it started roaring. The fire thawed me out as I set up camp & made dinner. All I needed was a s'more (or three) to make it a perfect moment. This was my favorite camping location so far. It would have been the perfect place for a zero day! But I'll be headed through Chattanooga tomorrow & my second dam at Chickamauga. I'm excited to see the city scape for the first time from the water. Things I am thankful for: * Sunshine * The strength and endurance to paddle with less than ideal body condition. * Moments of seclusion in the woods * The opportunity to explore this river
Coming into Hamilton County, Tennessee (above, left) and Pinky’s Point campsite, in Hixson (center & right.)
Wildlife -- Air, Land & Water
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Sunday, May 8
Coming up on Chickamauga Lock & Dam (above, left). I called the lockmaster ahead so he already had the gates open for me. I pulled up next to a pin you tie into (right.) You really just hold it in case you need to let go.
Different levels of water inside the lock during descent.
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TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 9
Starting mile - 478 Ending mile - 455.5 Launch time - 8:30 a.m. Takeout time - 4 p.m. A good night's sleep does wonders. And because I forgot to set my alarm, mine was a solid nine hours. Today started chilly, but I had a spring in my step. A morning fire kept me warm as I packed. Once I was out of the shaded forest & on the water, temperature wasn't an issue. The sun radiated through the partly cloudy sky & made Hamilton County's hardwood forests picturesque the whole day. Some of my favorite moments since I've started paddling are seeing beautiful bridges from the water. Seeing two in downtown Chattanooga were highlights of my day, as was rounding the riverbend on my way out of the city to view Lookout Mountain. Tonight's campsite is a Tennessee River Blueway location about 8.5 miles out of downtown at the start of the Tennessee River Gorge - Williams Island Campsite. The Tennessee River Blueway is a 45-mile stretch of the Tennessee River between Chickamauga & Nickajack dams with 11 access points & seven camping locations. The Tennessee River Gorge Trust oversees & stewards the Williams Island Campground. I found out after I got there that registration, though free, is required & not available for same day-arrival. Luckily, my hunch that no one would be arriving on Sunday & Mother's Day was correct. I pulled up along the rocky shore and observed the stairs to access the campsite were about 3-1/2 feet off the beach -- another reason I figured no one would be arriving today. The dock was attached with a rope but resting on uneven terrain ~ 20 feet away due to current waters levels. Hauling my boat up the steep 25 stairs would be challenging, but after scouting out the campsite, I couldn't pass up its coziness & solitude. I managed to lug my gear & boat up with effort, but not much trouble, though I don't recommend attempting to camp here without a second pair of hands to help carry your boat up safely. The Trust keeps a wheelbarrow at the top of the stairs to help visitors haul their gear to one of four campsites, which are only 100 yards away. Kayak racks are also present at the trailhead. Each campsite had picnic tables, a tent pad & a fire pit. I looked to start a fire after setting up camp, but the surrounding fuel was a little too damp to get one going. The temperature was warm enough so I decided to take it easy, watch a few resident cardinals flutter after each other, & listen to the diverse soundscape of the forest, knowing the island was all mine to enjoy for the night. Tomorrow I'll begin traveling through the stretch of the river I've anticipated the most, the Tennessee River Gorge!
Photos, above, are views of Chattanooga sites from the Tennessee River, including the Hunter Museum of American Art, perched on the river bluffs in downtown; the Walnut Street Pedestrian Bridge, which connects downtown with the thriving Northshore arts neighborhood; Chief John Ross Bridge; and Lookout Mountain. Photos, below, are of Williams Island Campground, a Tennessee River Blueway location.
Monday, May 9
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 10
Starting mile - 455.5 Ending mile - 440 Launch time - 9 a.m. Takeout time - 12:30 p.m. Today was scheduled to be a short jaunt down the river, just 15.5 miles. Knowing my day would be easy, I took my time waking up & breaking down camp. What a luxury! Well rested & with gravity's help, hauling my gear & boat down the side of William Island was much easier than the opposite when arriving. I started down the Gorge at 9 a.m. My photos couldn't adequately capture the grandeur of the Gorge - a 26-mile gap in the Cumberland Plateau's Walden Ridge. Mixed oaks, hickories, pines, chestnut, dogwood & sassafras were some of the diverse tree species I saw as I meandered around each mountainous turn. Bald eagles replaced osprey as the dominant & common raptor of the area. The sun sparkled on the water & the many shades of green in forest. However, as scenic as the day was, it seemed to be over just as quick. The current flowed noticeably in my favor today, helping me arrive at my destination, Sullivan's Landing, in just 3.5 hours. Today was also my first resupply day, which meant I could spend that extra time catching up with a loved one. I set up camp in the corner of the boat ramp area. While there wasn't much grass or flat non-parking area to take advantage of, I settled into a small grassy corner right next to the water that would double as the perfect launch point in the morning, no portage wheels required. After making camp, I took a break from my vegetarian dehydrated food to enjoy a big salad & sandwich (with meat!) and conversation for the rest of the afternoon & evening. Between the shorter day on the water & the quality time, my body & soul are feeling recharged.
Videos & pics --
Click image below to play video
The Tennessee River Gorge, between Chattanooga & Nickajack, is the most beautiful & grandiose section of the river so far.
Tuesday, May 10
Locking through Nickajack Dam — click image to play
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 11
Starting mile - 440 Ending mile - 421.5 Launch time - 9 a.m. Takeout time - 3 p.m. Another planned shorter day meant another opportunity for some extra rest in the morning. I don't want to get in the habit of late starts, but I'm thankful for these last couple. My shoulders were probably more fatigued than I've ever felt yesterday, but the extra rest has given me a second wind. I'll make more of an effort to continuously activate my core when paddling as I move downriver. The landscape was similar to yesterday's this morning but included waterfront homes this time & the opportunity to chat with some friendly river dwellers. The first was a man, Charlie, who asked me how to stay balanced in a boat like mine, measuring 22.5" wide & 17.5' long. I explained it took some practice but starting in a controlled environment, such as a pool, can give you a chance to get comfortable with your boat's feel. Once you are on moving water, be sure to 1) keep forward momentum when you can through any turbulence, 2) point your bow toward any oncoming wake or jabbel to minimize force that will tip you and 3) lean toward waves if they're hitting your boat from the side -- if you lean away from them, you'll capsize. Shortly after saying farewell to Charlie, I stopped to chat with another couple of paddlers, Brett & Deb. They were visiting the area from Ohio. The history & majesty of the Gorge had made their trip a memorable one -- just as it had mine. Upon learning of my journey, Brett shared a desire to complete a similar trip with his son after returning home. Since beginning the planning for my trip, hearing people talk about their connection to the water & desires to foster that relationship makes me grateful for my journey. That sentiment continued throughout today. In the early afternoon, I approached Nickajack Dam after a brief stop at neighboring Shellmound Campground, the finalTennessee River Blueway location & a beautiful place to stop for the day. The water had been calm so I aimed to go a little farther than planned. I asked John Walker, of Jackson County's RiverLine leadership team, about potential campgrounds downriver from the dam. He gave me a couple suggestions & followed up with word that he connected with Walker Henley, of South Pittsburg's RiverLine team, who coordinated a night for me at the home of his aunt's & uncle's, Rusty and Lynn Adcock. With a couple dams under my belt, locking through Nickajack was rest rather than worry. Once through, I made my way to the Adcocks' but wasn't fully prepared for the kindness & hospitality they showed me or the absolute delight the evening would be. We, along with their neighbors Chuck and Gloria, chatted late into the evening over delicious food. We talked about the centrality of the river in our lives & the lives of people along it throughout history that's displayed in artifacts of indigenous peoples found while exploring the river. We also discussed the river's impact on war, trade, our careers & our lifestyles. Rusty & Lynn grew up in South Pittsburg and have spent most of their lives in the riverside town. Before it got too late, I headed to a spare room of theirs to clean up & sleep in a bed for the first time in a couple weeks. As I nodded off, I pondered the cultural impact of & attachment to this resource that may come with a lifelong connection to the area. This may be the most comfortable bed I've ever slept in!
Approaching the heart of South Pittsburg, Tennessee, from Burns Island. The Shelby Rhinehart Bridge was built in 1981 — locals mostly call it the “Blue Bridge.”
Wednesday, May 11
Back in Alabama, entering Bridgeport. Not sure what that structure (above, right) is, but this is the Historic Dual Railroad Tennessee River Bridge along the Trail of Tears (left).
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 12
Starting mile - 421.5 Ending mile - 402.0 Launch time - 8 a.m. Takeout time - 3 p.m. Sleeping in a bed & climate-controlled environment is something I'm not going to take for granted for quite some time. I'm so thankful for Rusty & Lynn's generosity and welcoming nature. Before I left this morning, they treated me to quiche & fresh fruit for breakfast, making sure I had everything I needed before leaving. I'll miss them! They certainly set a tone for the day. As I entered Bridgeport & my home state of Alabama from neighboring South Pittsburg, I was greeted with a loud "Hello!" from John Walker, who was standing on the Historic Dual Railroad Tennessee River Bridge just above me. Then I saw a fleet of North Jackson High student-piloted Tennessee RiverLine kayaks closing in from ahead of me. What a welcome! And the party was just getting started. We arrived at Bridgeport's River Park to takeout, where I was blessed to meet the rest of the Jackson County RiverLine team, community members & Army JROTC students from Fort Payne High, who presented colors upon arrival. Shortly after, I had the humbling privilege to speak with these impressive young men & women from Fort Payne & North Jackson. I offered them words that I hope they found encouraging. After my short address, we enjoyed barbecue for lunch. I had the opportunity to get to know some of the students & Bridgeport residents on a more personal level. The short afternoon flew by & before I knew it, I was waving goodbye to my new friends who saw me off at the boat ramp. Since I first began planning this trip, LTC Walker & Jackson County have overwhelmed me with the support they show for the RiverLine & people like me traveling the river. From endless encouragement & coordination before and during and after my visit to a billboard declaring their Tennessee RiverLine community status to the plans they have to develop a campground at River Park & other resources for those looking to enjoy the river, I've learned so much from how they give & advocate. There were so many special little details & interactions I couldn't include for brevity's sake & fear of not wanting to leave any out. As I pulled up to quiet & spacious Raccoon Wildlife Management Area (a location I definitely recommend for future paddlers) and set up camp, I knew this would be the most memorable day of my trip & one I will never forget, along with the people that filled it.
Video & pics from Bridgeport
As I approached Bridgeport, I paddled into a welcome party –a group of North Jackson High School students enjoying the river! I then paddled with them to River Park pavilion, where there were events & festivities with the students, community members & the RiverLine Team. We also had a color guard presentation from JROTC students. I got to talk with the students before they sent me off. What an amazing group of young men & women. Very grateful I had the chance to spend a short afternoon with them!
Pulling up to Raccoon Wildlife Management Area. This was a good spot to camp, but I guess I missed getting a photo of the field I set up, which was right next to that sign in the background. Thursday morning, I’m headed to Scottsboro.
Thursday, May 12
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 13
Starting mile - 402 Ending mile - 398 Launch time - 10 a.m. Takeout time - 12:30 p.m. Today was one of those days I just wasn't feeling it. I woke up nauseous with a stomach bug & had a hard time finding the motivation to get going. But we've all been there. Work has to be done, the kids need to be taken care of, a project is due - you have to keep moving forward. An unprompted encouraging text from Brad helped jump start my battery. I finally managed to launch around 10 a.m. Each morning when I finish packing up my boat, with everything in its correct place, I always feel energized. Today that lasted about 15 minutes. I quickly realized I was not going to "warm up" and was not in proper condition to paddle. I made plans to be picked up at the end of my day. After trying to take it slow for a couple miles, I realized that I should get off the river sooner than expected. I searched for the nearest takeout point, which happened to be a couple miles further downriver, and set off to my destination. The paddle was more of a slow crawl, but I made it, taking out just after noon & sleeping in the shade until my ride arrived. I'll be back on the river soon enough after some recovery time!
Friday-Saturday, May 13-14
Sunday, May 15
Approaching Bellefonte Island & Lake Guntersville through Scottsboro. Lake Guntersville felt more like a marsh than part of the river. The river weed was thick in many parts and inundated my paddle, making it difficult to keep pace without having to clear debris.
Video & pics of a perfect day on the river -- click image below to play
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 16
Starting mile - 398 Ending mile - 375.5 Launch time - 9:30 a.m. Takeout time - 4:30 p.m. After a couple of days rest, I'm back on the water & feeling surprisingly strong. Family picked me up & dropped me off in the same location I took out, giving me a launch time of 9:30 a.m. I couldn't have recovered so quickly without their support. I'll be making up some miles the next couple days, which will be a test. Up to this point, I've lost an average of 0.5-1 pounds per day while being on the water. This week will be high miles, so I'm happy I intentionally gained about 15 pounds before I started this trip. But today was a healthy & successful full day. The vegetation in this stretch of river is mostly riparian woodlands comprised of what would be harder-to-spot understory canopy & shrubbery species of more mature, late-stage successional forest I've seen in other parts of the river. Riverweed is thick here, especially along the shores, and big fields of lily pads are also present. The river is shallower in this area, which may be a key reason for the riverweed's dominance. My paddle was inundated by the riverweed constantly, which made it hard to keep pace & get into a groove today. At one point, my left foot peg popped off its track. I had to cross the intimidating width of the river here because a barrier of riverweed protected the left bank although I was much closer to it. Navigating across the river without my rudder was a challenge. It reminded me of how vulnerable I would be without it! From Bridgeport to the Highway 35/Veterans Drive bridge in Scottsboro, this stretch also has much less recreational traffic than in other parts of the river I've been on so far. But that changed as I entered Lake Guntersville. The deluge of boaters made the wake strong, but rest helped me maneuver through it without too much difficulty. The partly cloudy sky also helped, giving me a beautiful view to paddle into until I arrived at the Mink Creek Boat Ramp area, in Scottsboro. This was the most comfortable boat ramp area of the trip so far -- well-maintained with a large, shaded & separated grassy area perfect for setting up a tent. It even had a garbage can! I'll sleep well here without worry. Tomorrow I'll attempt my longest day so far--30.5 miles-- so I'll need it!
Camping at Mink Creek Boat Ramp, in Scottsboro. Great place to stop for the day!
Monday, May 16
Lake Guntersville is enormous. Couldn’t see land on the other side of the horizon when starting this stretch this morning (above, left). Ten miles down the river (above, right) and the other end of the lake still isn’t clearly definable. I turned shortly after this.
Pretty clouds in the sky & beautiful bluffs on the riverbanks made paddling across Lake Guntersville today a delight.
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 17
Starting mile - 375.5 Ending mile - 345 Launch time - 6:50 a.m. Takeout time - 5:30 p.m. I started today with so much energy. What two days of recovery did for my speed setting up & taking down camp was amazing, even if it was while I was recovering from a virus. Lake Guntersville is massive both in width & length in this stretch. When I pulled away from the Mink Creek Boat Ramp this morning, I saw never-ending river on the horizon. After 10 miles of paddling straight across, I could barely make out land ahead of me. Though the lake was wide, I could identify a good amount of riverfront homes & businesses built between the forested areas along it. The banks & lake had few other features until the last few miles, when islands & bluffs became more prominent. With that change also came deeper water & less riverweed. This stretch up to Guntersville Dam was the most visually appealing section of my journey so far. As I approached the dam, I passed by Hambrick Bat Cave, where a large population of endangered gray bats dwell. Paddlers & boaters can observe the bats from near the cave's entrance as they fly out at twilight to feed -- a sight I wishI had time for this evening. But I still had another five miles to paddle & needed to set up camp before dark. Locking through Guntersville Dam was a welcome break. Facing headwinds for a few hours so far & about 26 miles in at this point, I almost took a nap in the lock. The water is always so peaceful inside & the descent was a gentle rock of my kayak as if I was in a cradle. But entering Wheeler Lake woke me up, as the breathtaking scenery continued this side of the dam. Before long, I could see the Painted Bluffs, the visual indicator for the end of my paddle day. The afternoon sun broke through partly cloudy skies to glimmer on the bluffs & surrounding forests. The bluffs were the most spectacular geological feature of the trip so far. Despite how beautiful the bluffs were, you feel moments of anxiousness at the end of the day when approaching a planned wilderness campsite -- you fear that your campsite may not exist. After just over 30 miles of paddling today, I was feeling that anxiety. My campsite was supposed to be 50 yards ahead around the bend river left, but I had seen nothing except steep bank protected with rip rap for the last four miles. Luckily, rounding the turn, I saw a short stretch of beach & pulled up without issue. I set up camp & felt recharged by the most amazing camping view I've ever experienced. A large grassy area was available just 20 yards away & a moderate ledge above the beach boasted amenities such as pre-cut firewood, a picnic table & a grill. But I couldn't give up the view, even if it meant sand would be in everything in the morning. As I laid in my tent staring at the Painted Bluffs after dusk, fireflies lit up the night for the first time during my trip. This was one of the magic moments that you can't plan for, but you always remember. That makes a trip like this so rewarding.
On Wheeler Lake, approaching the Painted Bluffs. Not a bad view this evening.
Tuesday, May 17
This is a really cool catch of a dragonfly nymph emerging from its larval nymph shell to finish its metamorphosis. I don’t know about this species, but I know most live in an aquatic environment from three to five years and only live as adults for a season. I believe that over the next couple of hours, its wings will unfold & harden, giving it flight.
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 18
Starting mile - 345 Ending mile - 321 Launch time - 10 a.m. Takeout time - 7 p.m. I experienced the miracle of life this morning. Not that I don't always get to do that each day, but today was special because it started with witnessing the emergence of an adult dragonfly from its larval nymph state. Naturally, I took some time to watch this novel process. The dragonfly wriggled out of its exoskeleton, perched on a twig in some shade on the beach to avoid the sunlight and ants and then slowly unrolled & unfolded its wings before waiting for them to harden. Observing this phenomenon set me back to a later launch time than usual but taking time for opportunities like this are what this trip is all about. Making my way down Wheeler Lake, I followed a calm & narrow portion of the river with little else besides dense forest along the bank until entering Huntsville. A greenway enjoyed by cyclists led me to Rocket City's premier river harbor & campground -- Ditto Landing. Ditto Landing's Brandi Quick & Terry Winland, of the Huntsville/Madison County Convention & Visitors Bureau, greeted me warmly & with sandwiches. We chatted for almost an hour about the city's rich outdoor spaces & the recreational amenities along the river. These factors helped make Huntsville U.S. News and World Report's #1 city to live in. Before leaving -- with extra sandwiches, thanks to Terry -- I ran into future 652er Chad Hoover (@chadhooverfishing). He plans to begin his journeys of paddling, running & cycling the Tennessee River in succession next year. There are some amazing programs in the works to promote recreation, education & safety along the way. I can't wait to learn more about his endeavors & come back through Huntsville to enjoy the progressive & refreshing outdoor culture built here by its leadership. As I said my farewells and pulled away from Ditto Landing, I found a silver lining in forgetting to change my GoPro battery before leaving. It was an opportunity to eat another of my extra sandwiches. But as I was readying to continue, I was reminded of how dangerous being on the water by yourself can be: I slipped on the bank & hit the back of my head on a sharp rock. Though I was relatively OK, the slip was scary. It had me concerned about simple things you take for granted when at home, such as being able to keep a wound clean. The 13 miles to camp in Triana continued the calm, meandering beauty of the river I experienced that morning. It also gave me the chance to admire its serenity during sunset, when I would normally be off the water & in my tent. And there's a reason why I always pull off the water with enough time to get camp set up before dark. I may as well have been a Thanksgiving meal for the mosquitoes tonight. I likely was bit more tonight than I have been during the rest of this trip, but my campsite this evening at Triana Landing was a gorgeous, well-developed and -maintained green space. Despite my late arrival, I was relieved & encouraged to stay in such a cozy location. After cleaning my head wound, I ate my last sandwich before quickly heading to bed, thankful for Terry & Brandi saving me the effort of preparing dinner. That bit of time & energy really made all the difference!
Click images to play videos --
Leaving Painted Bluffs in the morning & passing Bean Rock Bluff, on Wheeler Lake. Then approaching Ditto Landing for lunch with Brandi Quick, of Ditto Landing, & Terry Winland, of Huntsville Tourism, who are both members of the RiverLine Local Leadership Team. After a great visit, I took off from Ditto Landing & headed back to the water.
Videos & pics -- click image below to play
Approaching Triana on Wheeler Lake & camping at Triana Landing.
Wednesday, May 18
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 19
Starting mile - 321 Ending mile - 297 Launch time - 8 a.m. Takeout time - 4 p.m. I woke up excited today for two main reasons. First, I'll sleep at home in my own bed tonight! Since I'm the Shoals, it makes more sense to travel each day to my paddling location than spend a few hours setting up & tearing down camp. Second, I'll be on the water today with Decatur resident and fellow paddler Dan Truitt. Dan joined me at Triana Landing & we launched shortly after. As we moved downriver, Dan pointed out the access points & green spaces he'd recently mapped out as part of the RiverLine's river asset mapping project. This will develop into an interactive map application that will promote river accessibility. These first several river miles of the day were such a good example of why a tool like that is important. Even though the river was narrow here & the locations Dan pointed out were riverside, greenery along the banks was so thick I often would not have noticed the asset had Dan not pointed it out, nor would I have had a good map to reference. Members of every RiverLine community have contributed their time & effort to this project. Thank you to Dan & all individuals who worked on this project for future river users! While the river remained narrow, we crossed a variety of channels & tributaries leading to scenic backwater paddling opportunities. As we approached Decatur & the city's industrial center, the river started to widen. Once I smelled the Meow Mix factory, I knew I was back home in the MSNHA. It smelled eerily like the rice & beans I ate for breakfast and again for lunch once we arrived at Riverwalk Marina, Dan's takeout point. I'm so happy & appreciative Dan took a day to join me on the water. I was also glad he took out when he did because the last 8 miles of the day opened to the widest & windiest section of the river I've traveled. I trudged for a few hours to Cowford Campground in Athens across the open water, focused on staying afloat. I was able to see my destination most of that time but felt like I was barely moving because of it. Finally arriving, I was overjoyed when my ride was waiting for me. Regardless of how hard & long the paddle is, those first few minutes after pulling your boat out are rejuvenating. I laughed out how inconsequential the wind felt from shore before heading home for the day.
Taking off from Triana Landing in the morning with Dan Truitt, of Decatur (@southern.paddler), and approaching Decatur.
End of day in Decatur -- click to play video
Thursday, May 19
A windy start to the morning -- click to play video
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 20
Starting mile - 297 Ending mile - 274 Launch time - 8:15 a.m. Takeout time - 5 p.m. If the Tennessee River had been giving me a smooth ride as I explore it up to this point, it tried to buck me today. Wind. Waves. Paddle paddle paddle. "Don't stop or you'll lose momentum and balance." That was the totality of my paddling experience the first couple hours. Wheeler Lake is vast without many landmarks. The green forests on either bank are dots in the horizon. The lack of visual stimulus afforded me mental space to focus all my attention on maneuvering the blustery waters that lasted the duration of my day. As I prepared to round the day's first bend, I beelined for the bank to shorten my total paddling distance and change my GoPro battery. As I approached, I saw what I thought was pollen floating off the bank's foliage into the water -- a common sight on my journey & at this time of year. But as I neared, I discovered it wasn't pollen. Instead, it was tens of thousands of mayflies swarming around the bank & randomly dropping into the river. I still needed to change my battery & I was curious, so I paddled narrowly around the area to observe the unusual behavior and watch them drop onto myself & my boat in the process. They broke up the monotony of the lake well. At my next attempted stop to change my GoPro a couple hours later, I made the mistake of pulling over river right instead of river left as I rounded the next bend. The wind was coming from river left but paddling across for wind protection from the bank would have been at least an extra & unnecessary 30 minutes of paddling. That decision ended with me capsizing my boat for the first time this trip when trying to relaunch, adding some extra time to bilge the water out. But once I was off the bank, I was moving again & with a little extra power this time. While stopped, I switched from my Aquabound Tango paddle to my secondary Whiskey paddle, another first of the trip. The Whiskey paddle boasts a wider blade allowing me to pull more water. With the equipment change, I changed to a high-angle paddle stroke from a low-angle stroke, also good for power increase at the cost of more energy output. The changes helped me cut through the wind, which I was more than ready to leave behind me for the day. In a few hours, I pulled up to Wheeler Dam and Lock admiring the view I'd only seen before from Captain Steve's boat (of Wheeler Lake Scenic Cruises). Wheeler Dam is the most visually spectacular dam of my journey so far, which makes me look forward to seeing the impressive spillways of Wilson Dam tomorrow. I took out just after the dam on Wilson Lake's boat ramp, happy to be home on the next stretch of river I've paddled many times.
This (above, left) was my view most of the day. Wheeler Lake was vast with few landmarks. The first time I headed to a bank to change my GoPro battery (above, middle), I thought I saw pollen floating & dropping into the water from the bank, but it was thousands of these insects. I don’t know what they were — there were tens of thousands of them hovering around that area or in the water along a couple-hundred-yards stretch. I tried paddling around them, but they were still all over my boat & me. Later I realized that I was holding a mayfly & damselflies were on my paddle leash.
Wheeler Dam. Pretty much every picture I took all day I took trying not to fall out of my boat because of the wind. (Click image below to play video.)
Friday, May 20
Day 21 -- zero day
Saturday, May 21
Starting out today on Wilson Lake, just after Wheeler Dam.
Between Wheeler & Wilson dams, these bluffs are layers of perhapys Fort Payne chert & Tuscumbia limestone? Barges were lined up at the Wilson Dam lock due to current restrictions, so I portaged through the TVA Rockpile Recreation Area.
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 22
Starting mile - 274 Ending mile - 256 Launch time - 9:30 a.m. Takeout time - 2:45 p.m. After paddling 125 miles over five days earlier this week, (partially to make up for the extra day I missed from illness), I had a few days of deloading & rest built into my schedule just in time. My hands & elbows are noticeably affected by maintaining flexed positions for so many hours each day. As I've crossed large sections of open water over the past week, particularly the past couple of windy days, my paddling experience has been dictated by the wind's cooperation or lack thereof. The wind bullied me a little today, but the bluffs along river left, the partly cloudy day & the water's familiar feel kept me in high spirits. Crossing the entirety of Wilson Lake, I first passed Colbert Alloys Park in Muscle Shoals, where we hosted a community paddle last summer after the installation of a new kayak launch & waterfront kayak rental service. With the Wilson Dam coming into view on the horizon, I noticed a long line of barges waiting to lock through due to the limited locking schedule. I knew I'd be portaging & had a ride set up at the TVA Fleet Harbor Boat Ramp to take me to Rockpile Recreation Area, just on the other side of the dam. As I pulled into the boat ramp, I saw people I know or pass by regularly in the community enjoying their weekend water activities. I've spent a lot of time on the TVA Reservation in Muscle Shoals, but now with my perspective of the other existing outdoor recreational resources along the river, I'm even more appreciative of the amenities we have here in the Shoals community that make the area easy to enjoy & maintain. Putting back in at Rockpile left me with only a 2.5-mile cruise down Pickwick Lake. I admired Wilson Dam's 58 spillways behind me. Shortly after, the Singing River, Old Railroad & O'Neal Bridges were ahead. I took out at McFarland Park marina & boat ramp. The park's riverside campground, with a walkable pier, disc golf course & view of the river's bluffs, would have made for a perfect evening but I headed home for the second night in a row. The time I saved by not having to set up/tear down camp or unpack & repack all my supplies was invaluable and is quality rest unto itself.
Bluffs & Bridges -- the Shoals
Sunday, May 22
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 23
Starting mile - 256 Ending mile - 244 Launch time - 6:50 a.m. Takeout time - 10:20 a.m. Starting less than 15 minutes from home meant an early launch time. My day was scheduled to be short -- just 12 miles -- but with how perfect the day was, I wouldn't have minded continuing had there been another takeout within reasonable distance. The water was calm, the wind took a day off & the sun was shining. I launched from McFarland & admired the Tuscumbia Limestone & Fort Payne Chert bluffs stretching a few miles to Sheffield's Riverfront Park. The river from Riverfront Park to Pride Landing was unique. Though the entirety of the river channel was wide, I felt like I was traveling a tributary. The inlets & backwaters produced by Seven Mile Island made the water feel cozy & my surroundings diverse. Near Riverfront I passed a healthy population of double-crested cormorants -- adults and juveniles -- that seemed more habituated to humans than the wildlife I normally pass on the water. This created an opportune moment of observation. As I moved on toward Cane Creek's boat ramp, bald eagles became prominent. I watched two of them fly out of the tree line near each other & thought they were a pair until they engaged in brief aerial combat. As the pursuer flew upon the lead eagle, the leader barrel rolled & the two locked talons for maybe a second or two, then disengaged and continued downriver. What a sight it was to see! Overall, the day was beautiful, peaceful & a nice reprieve from the big open water days with wind I've had lately.
Coming into Riverfront Park, Sheffield.
Between Riverfront Park & Pride Landing.
Click to play videos —
Monday, May 23
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 24
Starting mile - 244 Ending mile - 227 Launch time - 8 a.m. Takeout time - 2 p.m. Travelling through the Shoals -- my home -- during this trip has been a joy. I've become more familiar with the access points & miles of river here and more appreciation for them. Today, my last day through the Shoals, was no different. My destination was Waterloo, a historically significant landing along the Trail of Tears, 17 wide river miles down from Cane Creek's ramp. Then I would soon say farewell to Alabama and re-enter Tennessee. The day started humid but a headwind quickly picked up to bring a crispness to the air as I left the Cane Creek inlet. I regretted leaving my rain jacket in the car because of the chill. After so many days of headwinds recently, I seemed to make my way through the seven stages of grief during today's paddle. The extra rest from yesterday kept me in high spirits at first. But the wind & jabbel were turbulent, keeping me in the 2-mph range. As I accepted the conditions & looked forward to a rest day tomorrow, a simple act of kindness on the water boosted my morale. As I neared the Natchez Trace Parkway bridge & boat ramp, recalling the times I've driven over the bridge & watched the setting sun sparkle on the river, an approaching boater slowed to a crawl as they passed. Every other boater overtaking or crossing my path during this trip, regardless of water conditions, have maintained full speed & often don't take a wide berth. I truly appreciated this boater's good right-of-way & safe boating practices. As a kayaker, I can also be considerate of larger craft that may need to use certain deeper channels in the water & be sure to give them space to navigate. But this boater's good practice meant a lot when I was already facing choppy water. The little things really make all the difference. In a few more miles, I reached Brush Creek Park and Campground. If I weren't heading home for the evening, this campground would have been a must stay & should be for any paddlers coming through the Shoals. I had the pleasure of camping, playing disc golf & kayaking here with UNA's outdoor adventure club, Rec & Trek, the weekend before leaving for this trip. I was amazed at how scenic & well-maintained the large, underutilized area is. I stopped here to change my GoPro battery, then I was back on the water. During my stop the wind died, making the last hour and a half of my paddle much more enjoyable. Small beaches began to surface, replacing the former dominant bluffs or otherwise inaccessible banks in these last few miles. As I paddled under the bridge into Waterloo, entering Second Creek to take out at the boat ramp, dozens of swallows fluttered in & out of the eaves they had built underneath & along the bridge, which was just 10 or 15 feet over my head. A wildlife close encounter is always the perfect way to end a paddle!
Video & pics -- Natchez Trace, Colbert Ferry Park & on to Waterloo
Tuesday-Thursday, May 24-26 -- Days 25-27, zero days
Friday, May 27
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 28
Starting mile - 227 Ending mile - 206 Launch time - 8 a.m. Takeout time - 5 p.m. After crossing wide water with strong winds day after day for the past week, I knew the forecasted 16-mph winds would be difficult & dangerous to navigate on this last day of open water before Pickwick Dam. So, I settled for a high of 14 mph following three days of rest. The extra days off gave me much needed recovery for developing injuries & time to devise adaptations in my equipment to accommodate them. I'm thankful for my health thus far and for gear & designs I was able to reference in adapting my equipment so I can finish my trip. I started my day from Waterloo with wrist braces, elbow compression sleeves & straps around my paddle to reduce the need & intensity of hand & wrist flexion from gripping. As I turned north shortly after Waterloo, I crossed the river to find protection from the eastward blowing wind along the river's west bank. As I crossed just over halfway, the wind shifted & began blowing westward. Wouldn't you know it! Just my luck. I continued to the west bank to change my GoPro's battery. The wind continued to shift throughout the day, although it settled in as a headwind for most of it. Fortunately, wide beaches of shale were plentiful along the river here. I saw several groups of campers enjoying these undeveloped spaces. I tucked into a couple myself to break at different points throughout the day. Great blue herons fishing along the shorelines kept me company when I was moving through the day's 21 miles. I chuckle when I irritate them & cause them to cautiously fly away, only to repeatedly fly 100 meters downriver to go through the process again. Though it was a windy day, the thick cloud cover was just broken enough to let through a warm glow as I approached Pickwick Dam, giving me a picturesque view to slowly paddle into. I've gotten into the habit of pulling the small craft cord to lock through once I arrive at dams but should have called in today. After waiting about 20 minutes, I heard the familiar sound of a loud horn blow signaling watercraft into the chamber, but this time it was for traffic downriver headed up. I called in & found out several barges were backed up and it would be a while. Luckily, I have a couple more nights heading home and had a ride waiting. I took out at the dam's upriver boat ramp & will begin my day portaged just below the dam tomorrow. Resting at home in the evenings has been special, but I'm excited & ready to explore more campsites along the rest of the river in a couple days.
Video -- click to play
Saturday, May 28
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 29
Starting mile - 206 Ending mile - 190 Launch time - 8:15 a.m. Takeout time - 12:10 p.m. As I entered the Pickwick Recreation Area to launch this morning, my face lit up as I saw some flow to the narrowed river, especially since wind was not on the forecast. As soon as I launched, I felt the benefits of the current. It made all the difference. To compare, I exerted the same effort today & yesterday but finished 16 miles in just under four hours today (~4 mph) and 21 miles in nine hours yesterday (~2.3 mph). For the first few miles after Pickwick Dam, campgrounds dominated the river's steep banks. Waterbirds are not as common in this area as earlier in my river adventure. I miss seeing osprey & certainly feel I took their numbers for granted in my first passthrough of Tennessee. However, the landscape is still just as green & Hardin County offers its own charms. As I passed Shiloh National Military Park, what I identified as cannon fire boomed twice. Later I learned that the Shiloh Cannon Crew holds cannon demonstrations firing reproduced 6-pounder field pieces used by Civil War artillerists. The bellowing was a fun, if not momentarily concerning surprise! I'm sad I couldn't visit the park or the Tennessee River Museum, which interprets eras from pre-historic life to post-war reconciliation, during my trip, but weather threw off my schedule. I didn't want to miss the meet-up time with Hardin County's friendly RiverLine team. By noon, I pulled into Wayne Jerrold's River Park thanks to the swift water. Though this has only been my second day with any current, I'm hoping my luck continues tomorrow & through the week before the river widens again!
(Above) It was a cloudy day with calm water & a little bit of a current. As I paddled past Shiloh National Military Park, I heard cannons booming from the Shiloh Cannon Crew’s demonstration. Later, I headed to Wayne Jerrod’s River Park, Savannah, Tennessee, to takeout.
Sunday, May 29
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 30
Starting mile - 190 Ending mile - 171 Launch time - 8:30 a.m. Takeout time - 2:30 p.m. My second full day through Hardin County began the final stretch to the end of my journey. I was a little surprised at how much space was leftover when repacking my boat for the first time since arriving in the Shoals. But my packing skills have improved & I'm more knowledgeable about what I need now than I was at the start of the trip, so I felt confident. Most of the riverbank in Hardin County is filled with homes on stilts or sandy shore with forest. Pine was the dominant species in certain stretches, but the greenery was mostly mixed hardwood. Though the wind shook the trees intensely today, I didn't feel its effects on the water much. The people of Hardin County were out in full force on the river to celebrate Memorial Day weekend, and they were some of the friendliest people I've come across. As I passed a block of homes, two groups hollered down to me to say hi or ask where I was headed & wish me a good day. Not long after, a group having fun on the beach invited me to join in as I passed by. When I arrived at my potential destination for the night -- Saltillo Landin -- and started scouting it out, a woman struck up a conversation with me. She invited me to stay on her dock for the night, which neighbored the landing. I decided the landing wouldn't make the best campsite & thought it would be best to continue a little farther as the day was still young. I had a strip of TVA land in mind just a mile or so up ahead & hoped to find some suitable beach there. Toward the end of the strip I had in mind, I found a 30-ft. deep beach with a shallow grade nestled behind the protruding tree line. Though I couldn't use my solar panel here, the shaded beach was great for recovery & relatively low on bugs. I set up my tent about 15 feet up from the water line. However, as the hours ticked on, I grew nervous as the water crept up closer to my tent -- within a couple feet. I hoped it was because of increased activity on the river & subsequent increasing turbulence and figured the threat to my camp would subside as the evening continued. I fell asleep early to the ringing of country music, fireworks & probably some gunfire. I finished my first sleep cycle around 1 a.m. and sat up to check the water level, only to realize it was right up against my tent. I was glad I anchored my kayak in place with a log. I jumpstarted myself to do what I should have done before -- move my tent several more feet up the beach despite the steeper incline. Everything was still dry inside, thank goodness. Lesson learned!
(Above) I launched yesterday from Wayne Jerrold’s River Park & approached the Highway 64 bridge. Most of the riverbank here is sandy shore with forest or filled with houses on stilts. Pine was the dominant species in this particular stretch. I also saw a different kind of rock & bluff before pulling into an underdeveloped TVA campsite one mile downriver from Saltillo Landing.
Video, Chalk Bluff, Morris Chapel, Tennessee -- click image to play
Monday, May 30
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 31
Starting mile - 171 Ending mile - 149 Launch time - 8:15 a.m. Takeout time - 5:30 p.m. When I woke up this morning, the shoreline was back down to where it had been when I originally pulled up to the site, although the log bracing my kayak in place was gone. It would have been difficult for the water to carry my kayak away because of how the trees were lined up at the shore, but I was still happy it hadn't moved once I noticed the log's absence! I'll be more cognizant of how the river's water level can fluctuate in a short timespan when picking future campsites. The final stretch of Hardin County from my campsite to Clifton, between the bluffs and the partly cloudy sky, made for one of my prettiest paddles yet. Current helped me along for the first couple hours, but I faced a headwind when approaching Clifton. Wendy Adey, Main Street Clifton director, met me at the Clifton Marina. She introduced me to marina owners & operators Stacy, Christopher, Susan & Steven before taking me on a tour of the town. Clifton, a small town of ~900, has seen an influx of tourism & improved infrastructure in the past five years. Recreation is the center of the town's developing economy. New ownership & a fresh look at the marina have made it more popular. A new golf course, splash pad in Riverfront Park, cabins & campground, bed-and-breakfast lodgings, updated main street and updated docks, beach, accessible riverwalk & amphitheater have contributed to Clifton's boom as have historical sites such as the home of novelist TS Stribling. Clifton certainly is a place I will be visiting again, and I'm looking forward to watching the town's development. After my tour with Wendy, I returned to the marina to enjoy its music & people while she treated me to lunch. The best & worst part of stopping into visit areas is that I always end up spending too much time visiting but it never feels like enough! After about 2.5 hours I was back on the water, thankful for Wendy's time & the chance to get acquainted with Clifton. The last 10 miles were as beautiful as the first 12. When I pulled up to my campsite -- Double Islands -- I marveled at the 270-degree view of the river with bluffs just downriver & an RV campground across on the closest bank. A friendly man named Kelly stopped to chat. As I set up camp, we talked about my trip & gear and locking through dams. The people in this stretch through Hardin & Wayne counties have been some of the friendliest I've met. Still full from lunch, I decided to have a snack instead of making dinner. I went to bed early -- 7:30 p.m.! The next couple days will be harder than the last few, so I'll need the rest.
Headed into Clifton, Tennessee -- click arrows to scroll
Headed into camp at Double Islands, Perry County, Tennessee -- click arrows to scroll
Tuesday, May 31
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 32
Starting mile - 149 Ending mile - 119 Launch time - 7:50 a.m. Takeout time - 6 p.m. I heard a multitude of bird calls yesterday on Double Islands & encountered what sounded like the dominant resident species as I stretched within the shaded tree grove this morning. A bright yellow prothonotary warbler landed on a branch near me. It then flew & hovered within a couple inches of my face to inspect me for a moment before darting off. A great way to start to the day! I launched at 7:50 a.m. hoping to paddle 30 miles today. The conditions were prime for it -- a sunny day with no wind. The little bit of current was a gift. I needed to take advantage of it while I could. These miles of Perry County were like the last couple days through Hardin & Wayne counties, although with more topography in some areas. The partly cloudy sky accented the terrain well with spotted sunlight, but the sun was unrelenting & unforgiving. The day was hot! Private property signs are more common here along the undeveloped shore, keeping me in my kayak during breaks. I figured I would save time that way anyway by taking advantage of the river's flow. I don't pass industry often, but a few mining operations on the shore & river itself were other novelties of this area. One of the most scenic spots of the day was Lady's Bluff TVA Small Wild Area. It features a prominent limestone bluff & trail overlooking the river at its summit. Had I been following my original plan for the evening, I may have explored the views from above, but I had another 11.5 miles to go. The bluff was only rivaled in beauty by my eventual destination for the night. As I neared within a few miles of the TVA land where I wanted to camp for the evening, I noticed that the shoreline present on my map was absent in reality. I don't like staying where I'm unsure of the camping's allowance. However, I knew I wouldn't have the energy or daylight to continue moving up to the TVA land. I decided to duck into the Tennessee National Wildlife Refuge's Morgan Creek Boat Ramp. As I paddled in, I watched two separate kingfishers hunting along the bank. A couple spotted gar startled me as they twisted & dove from the water's surface next to my boat. The refuge seemed equally peaceful & undisturbed as it was alluring in the sunset. As I set up camp, the Princes, a couple whom I had passed earlier, stopped to chat. They added some joy to my evening by sharing a couple of sandwiches. People's kindness never ceases to surprise or amaze me on the river. The day was the longest & should be the hardest one left on my trip. I'm on the home stretch!
After I took off from Double Islands this morning, the sun was strong & unforgiving today!
Video -- what 30 miles of riverscape is like
I don’t see industry on mining operations on the shore often but I passed by a few today.
Perryville Marine and Campground and the Hwy. 412 bridge. Lots of marinas as well as campgrounds for recreational vehicles here in Perry County.
Entering Tennessee National Wildlife Refuge & approaching campsite via Morgan Creek boat ramp -- click arrows to scroll
Wednesday, June 1
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 33
Starting mile - 119 Ending mile - 100.5 Launch time - 9:30 a.m. Takeout time - 4 p.m. Long before becoming a paddler, I was an avid runner. With all the runs I complete, once I reach the last 20 or 25% of the total distance, I always start to get anxious & excited about the impending finish. I felt that as I set out on the water this morning. Today started as hot as yesterday felt. The current was gone & there was no wind. I paddled out of the refuge & onto the river, quickly hoping for shade, but there wasn't a cloud in the sky until midday. At noon clouds quickly moved in & a light rain began to patter. I pulled over to equip my spray skirt, but as I finished, so did the sprinkling. I figured if it came back, there wouldn't be enough water to be a threat, and the skirt would just make me overheat, so I continued on without it. Light rain showered another minute here & there. The cool temps that the clouds & rain brought stayed with me an hour until I reached the full width of Kentucky Lake. On the lake at mile marker 109, I enjoyed my first osprey sighting in ~175 miles. The nestlings chirped away as their mother circled me. As I passed the nest I watched the adult male of the pair bringing its inhabitants a fish for lunch. I saw another at mile marker 101.9, which made me hopeful to see more & happy that I was almost to my campsite, New Johnsonville Harbor and Campground When I spoke with James, the campground's operator, this morning to check on availability, he was quick to invite me to stay. He was just as quick to welcome me when I pulled up. He made sure I had everything I needed & access to all the cozy camp's amenities. He even offered me a ride to the store after setting me up with a good spot for my tent. A hot shower after setup was more refreshing than I can describe, and brought some relief to accumulating bug bites. A kind summer resident of the campground shared a brief conversation with me & offered to buy me a couple steaks. I greatly appreciated his generosity but declined since I'd already eaten dinner. Veggie potato bowl was on the menu again, though tonight I also enjoyed some astronaut ice cream I'd been saving from a Huntsville care package courtesy of Terry Winland. The treat & kindness of the campground dwellers were perfect pick-me-ups for the warm evening. Storms are forecast for later tonight & tomorrow. I'm looking forward to the prospect of some rain with this warmer weather!
Leaving the Tennessee National Wildlife Refuge & getting back on the river.
Click to play video -- a light rain cooling TJ down on a hot day
Ospreys
New Johnsonville Harbor and Campground
Thursday, June 2
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 34
Starting mile - 100.5 Ending mile - 83.5 Launch time - 7:30 a.m. Takeout time - 3:30 Pp.m. Though my sleeping pad isn't holding air well throughout the night anymore, sleeping on a well-kept pad of grass was comfortable & revitalizing. It gave me the energy I needed to start my day quickly. I launched into a mild, mostly cloudy day. The stormy forecast had cleared up overnight, but wind was still projected. Around 10:30 a.m., the headwind began to blow against me. I was challenged navigating it, but I've paddled through much worse before. Kentucky Lake is vast & mighty, over a mile wide along its length. But it is less developed than the other reservoirs I've crossed. Despite passing four marinas & a few boat ramps in just 17 river miles today, the remainder of the riverbank is mostly conserved mixed hardwood forest. Nathan Bedford Forrest State Park helps keep this pristine forest on the western portion of the river here & appeared to have well-maintained amenities as I passed. Though the river is wide, many islands were present, including some that didn't show up on my map. The islands added to the challenge of identifying the most efficient route here but more so broke up the monotony of crossing such wide water. In the last hour of my paddle to destination Little Crooked Creek boat ramp, a light rain fell. It stopped just before I pulled up to the ramp, allowing me to set up camp unhindered. As I enjoyed dinner -- chai rice & tomato soup-- two men from the area who previously had driven through the turnout came back to chat. They learned of my journey & shared a story about another man they called "Driftwood"" whom they had met during his own journey a couple years ago. He started on the AT but ended up traveling the Tennessee River, eventually to the Mississippi. When he stopped here, they became friends. He stayed for several months with one of the men, working on his painting crew. The men made sure I wasn't in need of anything before wishing me luck & safety for the rest of my trip. I might've had the opportunity for a good job & a cool nickname like "Driftwood" here, but my sights are set on Paducah!
Crossing Kentrucky Lake to Little Crooked Creek
Friday, June 3
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 35
Starting mile - 83.5 Ending mile - 60.5 Launch time - 8:50 a.m. Takeout time - 6:30 p.m. Camp went down slow this morning. Last night was cold. I moved slower because of it, staying bundled up a few extra minutes. As I wheeled down to the boat ramp, I saw the ramp's (bent-over) rules sign for the first time, which stated camping was prohibited. Whoops! Despite a sluggish start, I came alive on the water. The sun was bright & few clouds were in the sky. A breeze blowing toward me kept the morning crisp. For the last short stretch yesterday, maybe an hour, I tested out paddling with some force & didn't feel negative effects for the first time in awhile. I knew I would need that to get off the water in a reasonable amount of time today, as the forecasted headwind picked up. I was thankful for the cooperation of my elbows & hands. Stronger wind came a couple hours into the paddle. From there it was white caps all day, save maybe an hour dispersed throughout it. I knew I had jinxed myself earlier this week when I commented that the 30-miler was my hardest paddle left! The ability to use my muscles kept me in high spirits & motivated for most of the slog. Paddling through the middle of Kentucky Lake, I passed several large bunches of mayfly larva exoskeletons but didn't see any adults until passing Piney Grove Campground -- which looked so comfortable I was tempted to stop early. I learned when passing these mayflies that they perch on the leaves of trees along the shore in great numbers. As I passed 20 or 30 yards offshore, a battalion of them swarmed me. I thought I picked them all off, but half an hour later I felt one bite under my chin. I continued finding them for the next hour until reaching camp at Boswell Landing Campground. I was happy with my choice to continue here from Piney Grove. Boswell Landing was beautiful. Though there isn't running water, each site is shaded and has a large lightly graveled pad, picnic table & fire ring. Well-kept grass & trees separate the sites. The campsite appeared popular, with 10 or so of the sites on the other side of the campground already occupied by mostly locals, based on my conversations with them. Pulling up late, I managed to finish set up before dark despite my worry. After a wild day of paddling I decided on an equally wild dinner. I combined the tomato soup & potato veggie bowl mixes. Sometimes you just have to live a little. Tomorrow should be similar wind but a few less miles, then tailwinds are forecasted for my last two days!
Video -- click to play
Boswell Landing --
Saturday, June 4
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 36
Starting mile - 60.5 Ending mile - 42 Launch time - 8 a.m. Takeout time - 2:30 p.m. Despite late night music & activity of Boswell Landing's campers that kept me from sleeping, I woke & packed up quick to try to beat today's forecasted wind. I paddled out of the bay with the morning fog, feeling some fatigue & strain from yesterday's ordeal. But today the water was like glass, melding with the sky in the horizon. It looked as if I would eventually fall off an edge if I kept paddling. The river was a straight 18.5 miles to my destination. The river was straight, without islands, and with similar vegetation to the other parts of Kentucky Lake. But an uncommon stretch of bluffs for a few miles broke up the eastern side of the river, which is mostly preserved land outside of access points & campgrounds as part of the Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area. On the western side were what looked like mostly private homes speckled into the forest throughout the day. A boat race must have taken place because boaters began roaring past on the Kentucky side of the lake, like the waves from yesterday, in large groups around 10 a.m. I was glad to be along the Tennessee bank of the river, but I still felt the effects of their wake. Just before I reached Rushing Bay Camping Spot, nine miles away from my destination, I began to see the bridge that marked it on the horizon. Shortly after, I entered Kentucky state, signaling the last 50 miles of my journey. By the time I reached the state line, the water had finally calmed from the boaters' barrage. I was surprised at the day's overall gentle waters -- the late morning & early afternoon headwind was negligible. The boaters sped back across in the opposite direction just before 2 p.m. as I approached my campsite, Fenton Self Service Campground. The campsites were a short walk inland from the boat ramp. I'm unsure if I made it to an official site, but I found a clearing with a fire pit & spotted shade off a bike trail about 400 yards up from the ramp and plopped down for the night. Finishing earlier in the day & without much trouble was a big relief. After setting up, I looked to fill my water jugs up at the pump along the path I entered on, but the water appeared to be shut off. Luckily I have enough to get me through tomorrow. The campground, a part of the Land Between the Lakes Regional Water Trail as is Boswell Landing, is still a comfy place to rest. I would happily come back. This is my last night camping since Blair Travis, a river angel in Calvert City, has arranged a room for me to stay in tomorrow night. I'll never get tired of sleeping on the ground, but I'm looking forward to a hot shower & a cozy bed indoors!
Video -- click to play
A rare bluff in this area. The east side of the river is mostly undeveloped forest with the occasional beach. The west side has some development — mostly homes, but that is over a mile across.
I’ll be closer to this bridge (above, left) tomorrow. Camped near it at Fenton Self Service Campground (right) at the end of today.
Sunday, June 5
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 37
Starting mile - 42 Ending mile - 21.5 Launch time - 6:20 a.m. Takeout time - 12:15 p.m. Looking to finish the last miles of Kentucky Lake before boat traffic picked up, I launched early. My strategy worked, but today was the first day I dealt with bugs during my paddle. Unfortunately, I ran out of bug spray the day before yesterday. Mosquitoes & other gnat-sized bugs flittered about & crawled on me as I paddled the first few hours. I tried dipping my hat in the river to deter them with moisture, but that helped little. Each time I took my hat off, a small cloud of mosquitoes would fly from it & around my face. Still, I couldn't help but think how thankful I was for the opportunity to connect with the river & appreciate nature all this time. I may not get another chance to do something like this, and I wanted to soak up what was left of it. A few hours into dealing with the bugs, I noticed a marina river left -- a great place to buy some bug spray. After checking my map, I was also happy to see that this was Southern Komfort Marina and Campground, marking nine miles into the day. The campground was large & well-maintained, with a small camp store that had all the simple things a camper might need. I equipped myself with the largest can of insect repellent they had, donned my invisibility cloak of DEET & was back on the water. My paddle to Kentucky Dam was bug-free the rest of the way. Marinas, campgrounds & access points filled this stretch of the river on either bank. And as I passed them, I admired how each campground was full! The river seems to be an appreciated recreational resource by many in Kentucky. As I approached Kentucky Dam Marina, by far the largest marina I've seen on the trip, I noticed a long line of barges waiting to lock through the dam. I was happy I'd be meeting Blair and Garrett Travis, of Calvert City, at the marina to take out & begin just below the dam tomorrow. But when they picked me & my kayak up, I was also delighted by their positive energy. I enjoyed the time I was able to spend with them exploring the area that afternoon. We first stopped at Kentucky Dam Village Resort, where Blair had arranged a room for me for the night. The resort was waterfront next door to the marina, with a restaurant, walking trails & access to the area's greenway, a pool and comfortable lodging with waterfront views. I checked in & cleaned up while my welcoming river angels locked up my kayak for the night. Then we headed out for a tour of the city on our way to dinner. Calvert City, with ~2600-residents, takes full advantage of the river & its other outdoor resources to improve its residents' quality of life. Despite the small permanent population, the city keeps multiple large scenic parks, a golf course, an airport and trails connecting its amenities for cyclists & pedestrians. The connectivity & accessibility of these resources was inspiring. I was unsurprised learning about the strong tourism that is associated with the area because of its recreational amenities. Calvert City's continued desire to improve upon these resources, which are fueled by the industrial economy of the area, identify the city as a model Tennessee River community in my mind. We had delicious food & delightful conversation at Los Tres Amigos, a popular Mexican restaurant in Calvert City. Then Blair and Garrett drove me just outside the city's limits to view the Cumberland River and Barkley Dam, the last dam along the Cumberland before it -- as does the Tennessee River -- drains into the Ohio. As we marveled at the dam & what people are capable of building, we watched around a dozen bow fishers hunting for invasive Asian carp. After appreciating the sportsmen & the power of the jumping fish, we headed back. I wanted to get some rest for my last day on the Tennessee. I'm so thankful to Blair & Garrett for all the time they gave me this Sunday afternoon, the opportunity to get to know Calvert City & Marshall County and the comfy bed I'll be sleeping in tonight!
Coming into Kentucky Dam & then views of the downriver side from the shore. Also saw Barkley Dam.
Blair and Garrett (above, left) Travis picked me up, took me to dinner & arranged a room for me at the Kentucky Dam Village Resort (above, right).
Monday, June 6 -- Disembarking Day!
Video -- click to play
Paddling with Chris and Sam Kerrick.
TJ's Travel Journal -- Day 38
Starting mile - 21.5 Ending mile - 0.0 Launch time - 8 a.m. Takeout time - 2:15 p.m. Today was the last day of my journey. Knowing I would finish when I woke up this morning was bittersweet. I'll miss the river -- its beauty & simplicity and how it gives life. But I'm also excited to return to mine. Blair picked me up from the resort at 7:15 am, so I could pack my boat & be on the water by 8. I would launch from the Kentucky Dam boat ramp just below the dam to finish the last 21.5 narrow miles of the Tennessee before its confluence with the Ohio. After the short trip to the launch, I arrived to a welcoming party that included Benton residents Chris & Sam Kerrick, who I was fortunate enough to have as company during the first 4.5 miles of the day's paddle! These first miles on the overcast day were calm, without wind & with a gentle current supporting us. The miles went by quickly with the current & conversation. Sam, an impressive young man of 14, gave me an introductory lesson to astrophysics that was more digestible & educational than I would have had in a collegiate course! As we neared Haddock Ferry, the industry along the river that provides so much opportunity for Marshall County began to pop up. The presence of industry continued until I reached Paducah that afternoon, with barges & plants lining the riverbank. Though paddling with them was such a joy, I was happy Chris & Sam disembarked when they did because of the expected storm. Within another couple miles, the wind began to blow. Though it was forecasted as a tailwind, I faced a strong headwind now. The rain started shortly after, and thunder quickly followed. As I paddled with Chris & Sam, I had thought that the day was too anticlimactic to be the last day of my trip. This was more like it! Lightning began to strike as I approached the Highway 60 bridge, and the rain was heavy enough to reduce visibility to a couple hundred yards. I took shelter under the bridge, waiting for the lightning to pass. The storm was a great final reminder of nature's power, and I embraced the opportunity to experience it one more time before heading home. After ~45 minutes of waiting & with the rain now pelting me as it felt sideways, I decided to continue. The bridge was within a couple hours of the Ohio River confluence. Although I still heard thunder, the lightning had seemed to pass for now. A few more strikes may have landed in the distance as I continued, but I couldn't tell if it was just me blinking in this downpour. With just over a mile to go the storm subsided, and I enjoyed a peaceful paddle into Paducah's Historic Riverfront. I was satisfied with the final trial, excited to experience one last new-to-me Tennessee River town & thankful for the graciousness of those who braved the weather to meet me at my endpoint. I was so happy to see both old & new faces. As with all the other wonderful people I met along my trip, I wish I had more time to share with each of them. Thank you to everyone who was a part of my journey, before, during & now after my trip! While the river is magnificent itself, I could not & would not have wanted to do the trip without you all, nor would I have had the opportunity. The many kind people that embrace the river & those who come with it are who make the Tennessee so special. Thank you for making the trip a success & for adding to the experience of a lifetime!
Lots of industry on the water.
